¶ Surfing Surfboarding
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Index Entry
Surfing: Surfboarding:
“I am beginning to talk about wave in pure principle. . . beginning to discover it is a principle. Pure principles are useable. They are reducible from theory to practice. For instance, we have these waves on the water. You may do surfboarding yourself, but at any rate it is very interesting. It is like skiing except you have a very interesting condition where the mountain keeps moving along and so as fast as you go down the mountain, the mountain is going up as fast as you slide down it, and you never get down it. It keeps coming up for you very nicely so you are continually using gravity. If you are coming down it too fast you can start using that angular descent, and you can angle so you don’t come down so fast and you can wait until the wave comes up to you again. You begin to discover you can stay up on that wave by angling yourself-- and keep going on and on and on. This is what the porpoises do. They go right around the world riding a wave without any effort at all. It is a very good way to go around the world on pure principle.”
¶ Citations
- Oregon Lecture #3, pp. 102-103. 5 Jul’62
